Time seems to move slowly in Pushkar, a holy city in India’s desert state of Rajasthan. India is one of the most scintillating travel destinations in the world, and Pushkar stands out as uniquely different from just about every other Indian city I’ve thus far visited. Forget the hustle and bustle of everything you’ve experienced on your way to this tiny hidden gem of a city, and relax for a while. Stop anywhere, as it’s a true tourist’s town where your needs as a foreigner (purified water, sanitary eating conditions, general comfort and cleanliness, knowledge of the English language, etc.) are well understood and delivered. Enjoy a cup of chai and maybe snack on some fried vegetable pakora, exhaling some of the tension you’ve inevitably picked up as you’ve traveled here. (There are no direct flights into this small city; the nearest airport is in Jaipur.)

When I arrived in Pushkar for the first time, an overwhelming sense of peace overcame me. It’s considered a holy city for Hindus, but that’s not what struck me most about the place. Everything felt different in Pushkar. I had taken a train to the nearby city of Ajmer, arriving at midnight (not something I’d ever recommend to anyone). There are direct buses to Pushkar from Ajmer for less than $1 USD. It’s about a 30-minute drive, climbing the hills surrounding Pushkar, winding in and out on a road dotted with Langur monkeys on either side. The Langur monkeys flourish in these beautiful mountains and you’ll marvel at how strong and powerful they are, while also appearing to be extremely graceful. If you’re like me, you’ll be fascinated with them and wish you could meet them up close (which you can; simply purchase some bananas and hand them to the monkeys who hang out next to the famous Jagatpita Brahma Mandir, believed by many to be the only true Brahma temple in the world and dating back to the 14th century). One of the first differences I noticed between Pushkar and other Indian cities is that a majority of the town is blocked off from automobiles, which is a rarity in India where the constant darting of vehicles in front of pedestrians is enough to make one dizzy with fear. Fewer automobiles means the air is less polluted with diesel fumes, and the lack of honking horns is also a welcome relief.


Since it’s a small walkable city, Pushkar is easy to explore and take in all it has to offer. You’ll find the lake in the center of the city adds to the tranquil feeling of the town. Descend the ghats (steps leading down to the holy river) and sit quietly, observing the birds playing in the water and the vibrantly clothed women pouring holy water over their bodies. Around the lake there are local pundits (priests) offering blessings in exchange for donations. Many tourists, including Hindu who have traveled to the holy city on a pilgrimage, find the pundits to be quite aggressive in their offerings of blessings in exchange for money. In fact, the persistent hounding by the pundits to allow them to offer a blessing in exchange for a donation is probably the least peaceful part of this beautiful city. I was assured by many Hindu tourists that the pundits are, indeed, holy men and their blessings and prayers are not a scam. However, they have learned to value money a bit too much and it has tainted their reputations.


Lodging in the city of Pushkar can range from extremely affordable (less than $10 USD in some guest homes) to moderate if you’re not visiting during the yearly Pushkar Camel Fair, when rooms can more than double in price. I’ve never visiting during the fair, but it’s something I’m interested in doing in the future. The festival typically runs from the end of October to the beginning of November every year, and offers entertainment including: tribal dancing; music; mustache competitions (!); handicrafts, textile, fabric, and jewelry sales; as well as numerous other events, exhibitions, and culinary delights.


Regardless of the time you visit, be sure to wander around the streets of the city, meeting the local vendors and independent entrepreneurs. The products sold are not only affordable, but also well crafted. Pushkar vendors have made a profitable business exporting their goods to European and American business owners and fully respect your rejection if you’re not interested in seeing their wares. “It’s okay, have a great day!” they’ll reply if you tell them you’re not interested. And, they mean it. They’re not struggling day-to-day for basic needs, as most other small businesses do all over India. In Pushkar, they have consistent business and this allows them to be less aggressive with tourists, adding again to the overall peaceful feeling of the city.


While wandering around the city, you’ll also meet some nearby villagers who come into the city to play music for tips, or sell sweet grass to feed the cows. Be sure to support them, if you can, because they add to the beauty of this enchanting city. One favorite enterprising individual I’ve met a few times in Pushkar is a sweet shoe-shine man. My shoes, indeed, needed a good polishing the first time I met him (traveling in India can be very tough on one’s shoes), so I was grateful the shoe-shine man suggested I allow him to polish them. While talking with him the first time, he told me his name was Shamu. In my mind, this bright eyed young man could never be forgotten with a name like Shamu! Upon seeing him during a different visit to Pushkar, he approached me and suggested again that perhaps my shoes could use a nice polishing. He didn’t remember me, of course, because he sees countless tourists every year. However, his bright eyes and sincere smile were memorable. “Yes, Shamu! I’d like you to polish my shoes for me,” I replied. He looked at me, bewildered, asking how I could know his name. “How could I forget you, Shamu, after such a wonderful shoe shine you did on my shoes the last time I visited Pushkar?!” The small price of paying for my shoes being polished, in comparison to the joy I sensed he felt after hearing such a compliment, held value far beyond the ten minutes my shoes remained shiny after walking back into the market.


For those wanting to experience India, but who may be hesitant to visit a place so vastly different from the rest of the world, Pushkar is a wonderful beginner city. You’ll be able to experience Indian culture, without the stress that comes from visiting such a uniquely challenging country. You’ll be able to easily navigate the city on your own, converse with the locals and fellow tourists, stay in affordable and comfortable lodging, eat delicious meals, visit unique temples, and more. Come for a day and stay a week, as many other tourists do, and enjoy this beautiful holy city that has so much peace to offer explorers. And be sure to feed some sweet grass to the cows wandering the narrow streets and accept Shamu’s offer to shine your shoes. It will be an experience you’ll always treasure.